The Primitive Way

primitive-way-camino-santiago

Distance: 325 km Stages: about 14.

The Primitive Way is very similar to the original route of the Way of Saint James (Camino de Santiago), which began in the 9th century with the discovery of the tomb of Saint James the Apostle and the devotion of King Alfonso II, who made a pilgrimage.

It mainly follows tracks through natural settings. The route goes from Oviedo (Asturias) to the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela, crossing the forests and valleys of Asturias to join up with the French Way in Palas de Rei (Galicia).The route of the Primitive Way is possibly the most demanding, especially if cycling, where a mountain bike is recommended.

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Map of the Primitive Way on the Camino de Santiago

Asturias

Approximate distance: around 170 kilometres.Recommended stages: 7 or 8. The landscape you’ll be walking through is mainly rural, with small farming villages and not much industry. It takes you through the lushest nature of Asturias and may be the least urban part of the Way of Saint James. If you’re sightseeing, Oviedo is worth a visit, with its cathedral and its World Heritage pre-Romanesque churches. In Valduno, you can see the Roman baths of Santa Eulalia. The pretty village of Salas has the collegiate church of Santa María la Mayor, and in Cornellana there is an important example of Asturian Pre-Romanesque in the Monastery of San Salvador. The terrain in the final part of the route in Asturias is more rugged, and there are beauty spots like the Grandas de Salime reservoir and the climb to Puerto de Acebo.

You’ll like:- Having a meal in the historic town centre of Oviedo, discovering the tradition of Asturian ciders and the enormous portions of food. - Walking in the footsteps of the first pilgrims. Many people say that the Primitive Way is the closest to the origins of the pilgrimage route, as it is mostly in natural settings, far from the cities and less crowded. There is a variant from Tineo to Boures which conserves part of the original route. Remember that you do need to be in good shape physically to follow it.

Pilgrim walking in the mountains of Asturias

World Heritage sites to visit: most of the sites are in the city of Oviedo: the Cámara Santa in the cathedral, the Foncalada (a fountain in front of the cathedral), the churches of Santa María del Naranco and San Miguel de Lillo (both on Monte Naranco) and the church of San Julián de Prados. They are all part of the World Heritage site Monuments of Oviedo and the Kingdom of the Asturias. Main stops on the Primitive Way of the Camino in Asturias: Oviedo – Grado – Tineo – Pola de Allande – Grandas de Salime – Puerto del Acebo More information: The Primitive Way of Saint James in Asturias

Galicia

Distance: 150 kilometres.Recommended stages: 6 or 7.Alto da Fontaneira and its amazing views welcome you to Galicia on the Primitive Way. The terrain gradually becomes easier to walk on, and you’ll often find cattle grazing nearby. In many places, the route follows stretches of Roman road.Lugo is the largest city before you reach Santiago de Compostela, and it still has many traces of its Roman past, notably the city walls. Much of the old town centre is pedestrianised, making it pleasant to walk through. The Camino also goes through small villages like Castroverde (with a pretty path through chestnut trees nearby), Palas de Rei, Melide, and Arzúa.

You’ll like: - The contrast between the rural atmosphere of most of the path and the two cities on the route. Santiago de Compostela and Lugo are both busy and lively, and they are great places for enjoying the cuisine of Galicia, noted for its seafood and classic dishes like pulpo a feira (octopus). - The constant feeling of contact with nature, the views of valleys, and spotting little villages in the distance, nestled among the greenery. You can also explore the popular culture, which in Galicia often involves magical legends and witches.

Views of the city and cathedral of Santiago de Compostela, Galicia

World Heritage sites to visit: Lugo city walls, the only Roman city walls in the world with their perimeter still intact. About an hour’s drive from Lugo or Santiago de Compostela is another World Heritage site, the Tower of Hercules, a Roman lighthouse that is still in use, in A Coruña.Main stops on the Primitive Way of the Camino in Galicia: Castroverde – Lugo – Palas de Rei – Melide – Arzúa – Santiago de CompostelaMore information: The Primitive Way of Saint James in Galicia

Unusual ways to travel The Way of Saint James

Routes

Bicycle

Routes

Horseback

Routes

On a boat or a train-hotel

FAQs

Answer your questions

It depends on the route you choose to take on The Way of Saint James - the Camino de Santiago. There are three very popular routes in Spain. The French Way, or Camino Francés, is the most often taken, and is just over 900 kilometres. The Northern Way or Camino del Norte runs along the coast and is about 800 kilometres. The earliest or “Primitive” Way (Camino Primitivo) follows most of the original The Way of Saint James and is about 300 kilometres.
Most people divide Saint James’ Way into stages, and plan their route to take about a week. In that time you can cover around 200 kilometres.
It’s the certificate pilgrims receive after travelling Saint James’ Way. There are two requirements:
- Taking The Way of Saint James for a spiritual or religious reason.
- If walking or on horseback, accrediting having travelled at least the last 100 kilometres of the route. If cycling, you must accredit the last 200 kilometres. To accredit your route, you must present the pilgrim’s credential, with at least two stamps per day. You can get the credential and get it stamped at pilgrim hostels, parish churches, Post Offices, and Amigos del Camino associations.
You can travel Saint James’ Way at any time of year, but it’s very enjoyable in spring, and in September-October. The weather is warm and mild then, and it isn’t too rainy. Summer is also a good time, but you should avoid walking in the middle of the day, when it’s hottest.
It’s completely safe to travel the Camino alone. Pilgrims are almost always friendly, and often naturally form small groups as they walk. The plentiful hostels and pilgrim assistance centres make everything much easier. Also, the route is very popular, and the villages and towns on the way are used to pilgrims and can provide everything they need.
Most stages are 20 to 30 kilometres and can be walked in a day. In any case, the structure of the route means the stages can be adapted to suit each walker. It’s advisable to set off early each day and make sure you arrive at your destination before dark.
The Way of Saint James is very well-marked all along the route. Always follow the yellow arrows painted on walls, on the road, on trees, stones, posts, etc. It’s also a good idea to carry a good map or guidebook, or download an app onto your mobile phone. But if in doubt, it’s always best to ask local people, because they usually know the route of Saint James’ Way very well where it crosses their town or village.
A few months before you start the Camino, it’s a good idea to start taking walks every day, wearing the footwear you plan to wear on the Way. This helps you prepare physically. The same thing applies if you’re cycling the route. It’s a good idea to practice cycling with panniers on the bike.
Backpacks should hold around 35-40 litres, and they are much easier to carry if they are ergonomic and have waist and chest straps.
Just the essentials. We recommend not carrying more than 7 kilogrammes, and not more than 10% of your bodyweight. As well as clothes, most people bring a torch, a water bottle, a walking stick, a small first-aid kit, a multipurpose penknife, a rain cape or raincoat, a few clothespegs for hanging up clothes after washing, a lightweight towel, toilet paper, sunscreen, and a small washbag. If you’re going to sleep in hostels, a sleeping bag and mat are essential.
Don’t forget your documentation (ID card, passport, or other identification document) and your health card.
Your clothes should be comfortable and breathable. Hiking trousers or stretchy leggings, a sweatshirt, a jacket or cardigan to suit the time of year, a rain cape or raincoat, two or three short-sleeved T-shirts, a pair of flip-flops, two or three changes of underwear and socks, a hat or cap, and sunglasses.
Footwear is very important. We recommend water-resistant hiking boots that fit you well (they should be half a size larger than your normal size), and if possible, they should be already worn in. If they’re new, be sure to walk in them at home as much as possible before you start your journey.
It’s important to have an analgesic of some kind, plasters, hypodermic needles, gauze and bandages to dress any blisters you may get while walking. A lotion for muscle cramps and a mosquito repellent can also be very useful.
It’s a good idea to start the day with a big breakfast. Sweets, nuts and fruit are very handy for topping up your energy over the course of a stage. You should also make sure you drink plenty of water on your day’s travel - don’t wait until you’re thirsty. You’ll find plenty of springs and fountains along the way where you can refill your water bottle or flask.
For lunch and dinner, there are all kinds of restaurants, cafés and bars, where you can try the traditional dishes of each location, as well as keeping your strength up. Some establishments offer reasonably priced set lunches for pilgrims, the “menú del peregrino”.
All along the route, you’ll find different types of accommodation to suit your preferences and needs: pilgrims’ hostels, country guest houses, hotels, Paradores de Turismo, hostels, campsites, etc. Sometimes other options are more suitable than pilgrims’ hostels, such as when you are travelling in a large group, or with a support vehicle. They are also preferable when staying more than a day in any one place.
Some public pilgrims’ hostels are free and others require a small donation to cover cleaning and maintenance costs. There are also private hostels which cost a little more. The public ones usually fill up first. Hostels cannot be booked in advance, and places are filled in order of arrival. Pilgrims who arrive on foot have priority, followed by those on horseback, and finally, cyclists.
They usually open at midday, and after 9 or 10 pm they require everyone to keep quiet so people can sleep. In the morning, you have to leave by 8 or 9 am. Some hostels include breakfast.