Cider Boulevard
As you stroll along the Cider Boulevard, you can hear a constant clinking that sets the rhythm of the street. The sound of the liquid splashing against the glass becomes a rhythmic, everyday pattern that sets the pulse of Oviedo, in Asturias.
A taut arm holds a wide, slightly tilted glass, whilst a thin jet of golden liquid falls from above, splashing hundreds of tiny, sparkling droplets onto a dark background. As you stroll down Calle Gascona in Oviedo, you can feel the atmosphere buzzing with an unmistakable sound. You hear the sharp, crisp impact of the liquid striking the inner rim of the glass. It is a sustained, watery patter that blends with the hum of the cider houses, creating a lively soundscape where the splash of the drink sets the rhythm. This pouring technique is not merely a gesture, but a precise method for releasing the carbon dioxide in Asturian cider. As it falls from a height, the drink is rapidly aerated and emulsified, releasing its character in a process known as ‘espalmar’.
Cabrales Cheese Cave
To step into the darkness of the cave where one of the world’s finest cheeses is made is to let the thick, damp air envelop you. Feel the pungent, earthy scent of fermentation fill your lungs, revealing the slow maturing process taking place in the Cabrales Cheese Cave in Asturias.
Several cylindrical pieces of cheese, with rough, pale rinds, lie in a row on thick, dark wooden shelves. To be there is to feel the cold, thick air permeated by a pungent, ammoniacal and deeply earthy scent. Each breath fills your lungs with earthy, fungal undertones and a heavy moisture that you can almost feel against your skin. This rich aromatic ecosystem is the result of the action of the fungus Penicillium roqueforti, which is responsible for the blue veins in the cheese. In these limestone caves of the Picos de Europa, the extremely high relative humidity and constant temperature create the underground refuge where raw milk patiently transforms into one of the world’s most powerfully aromatic cheeses.
Bufones de Pría blowholes
Walking along the rocky cliffs and listening to the force of the water gushing from the earth is to feel the deep breath of the Cantabrian Sea. A constant rumbling that reverberates beneath your feet as the waves crash against the Bufones de Pría, in Asturias.
A powerful jet of salt water shoots skywards through a hollow in the dark, rugged coastal rock, sending up a thick mist against which a faint rainbow appears. From that point, you can feel the ground shaking beneath your feet before you hear a deep, subterranean roar. The Cantabrian Sea seeps through the cracks with a dull hum, compressing the air until it culminates in a powerful whoosh as the water is forced out under pressure. It is the wild voice of the Bufones de Pría, in Asturias. This acoustic phenomenon is the result of slow karst erosion, which has pierced the cliffs to create natural chimneys through which the sea roars and breathes, shooting up columns of water that accompany every storm at sea.
Oviedo's historic centre
Walking along these cobbled streets means letting the high-pitched, continuous sound of the bagpipe set the rhythm of your steps. As you wander through Oviedo’s historic quarter, you’ll feel completely enveloped by the sound of the percussion reverberating off the ancient stone.
A musician’s hands hold the wooden chanter of a bagpipe firmly. He wears a white shirt with gathered cuffs and a yellow vest, while the bag is covered in long purple fringe. There, you can feel the shrill, piercing sound echoing off the stone buildings. The air vibrates constantly thanks to the deep, sustained tone of the roncón, intertwining with the sharp rhythm of the drums. Sound waves funnel through the narrow streets, creating a metallic, expansive echo. This acoustic texture defines Asturias; an instrument with a double-reed design that produces immense volume - originally intended for communication between valleys, it now fillsOviedo’s historic quarter with resonance.
La Magdalena Peninsula
Walking along the Magdalena Peninsula is like feeling the ocean breathe upon the land. As you approach its cliffs, the wind carries a deep, damp scent of saltpetre and iodine, evoking the power of the Cantabrian Sea that embraces the city of Santander.
A sturdy palace built of light-coloured stone and featuring numerous windows crowns a steep cliff, the base of which is pounded violently by the foaming waters of a dark blue sea, flanked by a vast pine forest. As you peer out from this tip of the Magdalena Peninsula, you can feel the north wind enveloping you. The constant crash of the waves against the limestone rock sends the water spraying into the air, filling it with a sharp, pungent smell of saltpetre, damp seaweed and iodine. That raw, salty sea breeze mingles with the fresh, resinous scent of the nearby maritime pines. This landscape is no coincidence. The peninsula forms a strip of land that shelters Santander Bay, with its outer edge bearing the full force and wild fragrance of the open Cantabrian Sea.
Paseo de Pereda
Walking along the bay’s shore means letting the breeze envelop you with its unmistakable scent. You can sense how the saltiness of the water contrasts with the lush greenery of the trees, creating a fresh, briny scent along Santander’s Paseo de Pereda.
A small moored pleasure boat rests on the calm waters, flanked by a stone promenade and a row of stately buildings. From there, you can sense how the Cantabrian wind fills the air with a rich scent ofsaltpetre, iodine and damp seaweed. With every step, that sea breeze mingles with thementholated, balsamic and pungent scent of the nearby trees, creating a striking olfactory contrast between the ocean and the mainland. This subtle blenddefines the identity of Santander, a seaside capital where the ever-present eucalyptus trees of the north seem to breathe their fragrance directly onto the ebb and flow of the tides.
El Soplao cave
To venture into the subterranean darkness of this cave is to feel the air grow thick and cold against your skin. An aura of constant dampness envelops you at every step, drawing you closer to the icy heartbeat of the living rock inside the El Soplao Cave in Cantabria.
A dense canopy of delicate, white calcite crystal formations, resembling coral, hangs from the ceiling of a vast rock vault above a group ofpeople. There, you can feel the temperature drop suddenly. The air grows thick, laden with a constant, penetrating humidity that settles upon your face. You sense the icy atmosphere, imagining the rough, fragile and prickly texture of those eccentric crystallisations that defy gravity. The deep cold radiating from the living rock would slowly seep through your clothes, carrying with it the heavy stillness of the underground. This extreme atmosphere, virtually devoid of air currents, is what allows this geological environment to be forged drop by drop, where crystals grow chaotically in every direction, forming a white forest in absolute darkness.
Pasiegos Valleys
Unfold the brown paper and take a bite of a sobao, and you’ll feel tradition melt in your mouth. An explosion of rich, sweet butter that transports you straight to the green pastures of the Pasiegos Valleys in Cantabria.
A few rectangles of spongy cake take centre stage, revealing adark golden top crust and a yellow, porous and dense interior, resting on bases of white greaseproof paper. When you taste it, you can feel the moist crumb slowly melting in your mouth. You’ll savour a burst of sweetness dominated by pure butter, with toasty notes from baking and a deep aftertaste of fresh milk that fills the palate. The subtle crackle of the paper as it is removed from the mould accompanies this bite. This rich, creamy profile is the culinary hallmark of the Pasiegos Valleys in Cantabria, a true reflection of their centuries-old tradition of livestock farming and of milk that is exceptionally high in fat – the key to achieving thisconsistency.
Plaza de María Pita
To stand in the middle of this vast esplanade is to feel how the deep, metallic sound of the bells brings time to a standstill. Each chime sets the urban rhythm, resonating with a sweeping sound before fading gently away in Plaza de María Pita, in A Coruña.
An imposing building of light-coloured stone, with arcades and three large reddish cupolas, dominates a vast, peaceful cobbled square. The open, airy space amplifies the solemn sound of the bells from the central clock. You can feel how each strike of the bronze produces a deep, resonant sound wave that travels across the esplanade. The vastness of the space acts as a natural resonance chamber, allowing the metallic reverberation to linger in the salty air for a few seconds before fading away completely. This monumental clock does more than just tell the time: its historic mechanism and bells form the resonant heart of A Coruña’s municipal palace, which stands at the centre of a public square dedicated to the local heroine who defended the city in the 16th century.
Botafumeiro
To witness the Botafumeiro in flight is to see how the cold air inside the temple is transformed. A thick scent of incense and charcoal fills the air, enveloping Santiago de Compostela Cathedral in an atmosphere of liturgical reverence. The atmosphere is imbued with a rich, aromatic presence that complements the living history of the temple’s interior.
A large metal censer cuts through the air at great speed, leaving a faint trail beneath the high stone arches. Carved with plant motifs, geometric borders and embossed decorations featuring symbols of St James, and suspended by sturdy ropes and chains. There, with every sway, you can sense the cold air becoming infused with a deep scent of toasted resin, wood and charcoal, which dispels the dampness characteristic of the building. It is an intense, enveloping fragrance that seems to cling to your clothes. This smoke serves more than just a ceremonial purpose: since the Middle Ages, it has been used to purify the air and mask the strong body odour of the many pilgrims who arrived at Santiago de Compostela Cathedral after weeks of walking.
Fuente de los Espejos (Fountain of Mirrors)
Walking near the Fuente de los Espejos (Fountain of Mirrors), you can feel the humid air filled with the subtle, fresh scent of thousands of petals. A delicate olfactory experience that blossoms in the romantic gardens of the Pazo de Lourizán, in Pontevedra.
In the foreground, two voluptuous pink camellias unfurl their countless rounded petals, forming a perfect rosette amongst deep, lustrous green leaves. As you stroll past the Fuente de los Espejos, you can feel how the gentle Galician mist acts as a natural diffuser. The cool air is imbued with a subtle, clean floral fragrance, accompanied by light herbal notes and a deep, earthy undertone reminiscent of the Atlantic forest. This olfactory landscape sets the tone at the Pazo de Lourizán in Pontevedra, whose romantically laid-out gardens are home to one of the region’s most extensive botanical collections and help to earn Galicia its reputation as Europe’s great winter garden.
St Bartholomew’s Church
Standing at the crossroads in Praza da Pedreira is to let the sound of the bells fill the air. The metallic clang reverberates through the narrow cobbled streets, creating a rhythmic echo that sets the serene pace of Pontevedra’s historic quarter.
The sturdy grey stone façade, with its classical lines, stands out against a deep blue sky, with its upper bell tower taking centre stage, where heavy bronze bells hang in the arched openings. You can feel the air suddenly vibrate. The deep, resonant chime echoes downwards, reverberating off the granite walls of the Praza da Pedreira. A dense acoustic reverberation is created – a superimposed echo in which the sound waves from each strike of the clapper merge before fading away. This resonance sets the rhythm of Pontevedra, a city that was a pioneer in pedestrianisation, where the absence of motorised traffic allows the centuries-old chimes of San Bartolomeu to act as a perfect audible clock, guiding visitors’ steps through the historic quarter.
Calle de las Ostras
To savour a freshly shucked oyster is to take a sip straight from the Atlantic Ocean. The salty flavour and meaty texture flood the palate in an instant, capturing the maritime essence of what is known as Calle de las Ostras in Vigo.
An oval metal tray is overflowing with oysters in rough, irregular shells in shades of grey and green, accompanied by a few wedges of fresh lemon. As you pop the shellfish into your mouth, a wave of ocean flavour wash over you. Its tender flesh glides across the palate, leaving behind a rich aftertaste of iodine and sea salt, with a mineral note perfectly balanced by the sharp tang of a few drops of lemon. That burst of saltiness is the hallmark of the Vigo ria. Every morning, on Calle de las Ostras, traditional oyster women open thousands of these bivalves by hand – harvested from the nearby oyster rafts – keeping alive a street tasting tradition that captures the essence of the Galician sea.
As Burgas Springs
As you approach the springs of As Burgos, you can feel the warm breath of the earth even before you hear the water. The rich mineral aroma envelops you immediately, reminding you that geothermal energy pulsates at the heart of Ourense.
A steady jet of crystal-clear water gushes from an ancient stone spout, leaving behind rough mineral deposits in shades of copper and ochre. You immediately notice how the air is filled with a deep, lingering smell of sulphur. You can smell that rich, warm scent, reminiscent of damp earth but with a metallic undertone, mingling with the steam hanging in the air. This unmistakable scent has characterised the historic centre of Ourense since the time of the Roman Empire and reveals the presence of thermal waters that emerge from the depths at a temperature of over sixty degrees right in the heart of the city.
Playa de las Catedrales
Walking beneath the enormous stone arches, you can sense how the Cantabrian Sea roars and whispers at the same time. The constant crash of the water against the rocks creates a deep echo that reverberates through every cave at Playa de las Catedrales, on the coast of Lugo.
An imposing arch of dark, layered rock rises above the damp sand, defying the foaming surf beneath a sky dotted with clouds. To be there is to feel how the ebbing tide transforms the sandy shore into a gigantic sounding board. You can hear the rhythmic roar of the sea crashing against the slate cliffs. The sound seeps through the natural caves and vaults, creating a deep, constant reverberation – a low-pitched echo that completely envelops you and silences the outside world. There is a clear reason for this unique acoustics: over thousands of years, the force of the Cantabrian Sea and the wind have eroded cliffs up to thirty metres high, sculpting the passageways and flying buttresses that give the Playa de las Catedrales, in Galicia, its name.
Tapas on Calle Laurel
To let yourself be guided along Calle Laurel is to discover how each bar entices you with a different aromatic delight. You can sense the aroma of garlic, the earthy scent of grilled mushrooms and the subtle notes of Rioja wine that permeate the atmosphere in Logroño, in La Rioja.
On the surface of a weathered wooden barrel rest glasses of dark red wine and a plate of slices of bread, on top of which are piled roasted mushrooms topped with small prawns. You can feel how the narrow passageway of Calle Laurel is filled with a mixture of thick, hot vapours. The earthy aroma of grilled mushrooms, infused with oil and garlic, blends with the notes of toasted oak and ripe fruit emanating from the glasses of wine. This intense array of smells is down to the very layout of Logroño’s historic quarter, where more than sixty bars are clustered side by side within a space of just a few metres, creating a corridor through which grills and cookers constantly send out plumes of smoke.
Tobía Beech Forest
When you step beneath the dense canopy of these trees, you can feel the dampness of the ground enveloping you at once. The heavy, fresh air carries the scent of bark and leaf litter, guiding your every step through the shady heart of the Tobía Beech Forest, in LaRioja.
Rugged rocks, covered in a thick carpet of bright green moss,stretch across the sloping ground, flanked by the pale trunks of beech trees whose golden leaves barely let any light through. As you venture into the forest, thecold air fills your lungs with the deep scent of humus and organic matter. You can smell the intense, lingering scent of petrichor – that earthy fragrance of freshly turned soil – combined with raw notes of wet wood. This distinctive scent profile is due to the dense structure of the Tobía beech forest, which acts as a natural canopy that traps the valley mists. This vegetation barrier retains moisture in the soil of La Rioja, slowing down evaporation and promoting aslow decomposition process that constantly fills the entire forest with fragrance.
Calado de San Gregorio
Descending into the depths of this winery is a way to prepare your palate for a tasting experience where time seems to stand still. Feel the notes of oak, red fruit and earthiness caress your taste buds as you discover the Calado de San Gregorio in the very heart of Logroño.
A row of oak barrels lines both sides of a deep underground tunnel with vaulted stone walls, bathed in dim light. There, the cool atmosphere sets the stage for the tasting to come. When you taste the wine, you perceive a balanced structure; polished tannins caress your tongue, unfolding intense notes of black fruit, vanilla, and a subtle toasted touch. A lingering flavour that reveals the patience of the ageing process. This space is part of the Calado de San Gregorio, one of the 17th-century tunnels that run beneath Logroño, hewn out of stone to maintain a constant temperature and humidity throughout the year – the essential conditions for refining the body of La Rioja’s historic wines.
Garroticos
Take a bite out of a freshly made garrotico and feel the crispy puff pastry give way instantly, revealing a rich, warm chocolate centre. A contrast of textures and sweetness that sets the tone for mornings and afternoon snacks in Pamplona, right in the heart of Navarre.
A puff pastry bun, cut in half, rests on a rustic linen cloth. In the foreground, you can see the many thin, golden layers of the baked pastry, which envelop a centre of melted, glossy chocolate. When you taste it fresh out of the oven, you feel the crust break in your mouth with a subtle crunch, melting away into warm notes of toasted butter. Instantly, the palate is flooded with the intensity of the chocolate, creating a contrast between the lightness of the puff pastry and the silky texture of the melted cocoa. This balance of textures and flavours is what defines the traditional garroticos, a confectionery staple that is a fixture in Pamplona’s historic quarter. A sweet treat that’s constantly being baked, turning Navarre’s chilly mornings into a comforting mountain refuge of warmth and sugar.
Lodosa
Strolling through the streets of Lodosa in autumn, you can sense how the air is filled with the scent of wood smoke and caramel, whetting your appetite for a bite where sweetness and a hint of smokiness burst on the palate. A living tradition in the heart of Navarre.
Several roasted piquillo peppers, a deep, glossy red, are bathed in their own juices and oil. They have subtle dark notes from the charred skin, andsmall pieces of garlic are scattered across their surface. As you walk through Lodosa in autumn, the scent of caramelised sugar whets your appetite. When you taste it, you’ll notice a meaty texture that almost melts in your mouth. Your palate isfilled with a deep, ripe sweetness, contrasted by a very slight hint of bitterness and a lingering aftertaste of toasted wood. This triangular fruit with its delicate flesh is the culinary pride of Navarre; it is traditionally roasted over an open flame and peeled by hand without coming into contact with water, to preserve the full intensity of its original flavour.
Metauten Truffle Museum – General description
To savour a few thin, freshly sliced pieces is to understand why it is called the ‘black diamond’. It is the sensation of its earthy character flooding the palate with notes of damp woodland and nuts; a gastronomic treasure revealed at the Metauten Truffle Museum in Navarre.
A black truffle, with a rough, dark skin, lies on a wooden chopping board alongside some thin, freshly sliced pieces that reveal a veined interior,a labyrinth of brown hues and white lines. When you taste it, theinitial sensation in the mouth releases an intense, deep, and subtly bitterearthy flavour, with nuances reminiscent of mild garlic and toasted hazelnut. Its slightly crunchytexture melts quickly, leaving a long-lasting, umami-rich and intense aftertaste. This highly complex flavour profile, characteristic of Tuber melanosporum, develops in secret thanks to its symbiotic relationship with the roots of holm oaks and the region’s calcareous soils, making this truffle an underground gem that is housed in the Metauten Truffle Museum.
Guggenheim
When you stand close to the museum’s outer walls and press your palms against them, you can feel the giant’s armour beneath your skin. As you run your fingers over its curved forms, you can feel a shifting metallic warmth and a surprisingly smooth surface, like the scales of a huge fish guarding the Bilbao ria.
Dozens of rectangular metal panels overlap to form imposing, sinuous curves that reflect the sunlight against a clear blue sky. As you run your hands over the façade of the Guggenheim Museum, you feel a smooth, polished texture beneath your fingers. You can feel how the metal releases the heat it has absorbed during the day or the biting cold of the Cantabrian wind, creating a constant temperature contrast. As you run your hand over it, you sense the subtle ridges of the joints where each panel overlaps the next, as if tracing an articulated skin. This organic texture is created by the more than 33,000 ultra-thin titanium sheets, barely half a millimetre thick, which cover the building. The architect designed them to be freely shaped, ensuring that the city of Bilbao is guarded by a colossal fish with titanium scales.
Idiazabal cheese
When you try a bite of Idiazábal cheese with quince, you’ll experience a perfect contrast on the palate. The firm texture and smoky flavour of the cheese blend with the rich sweetness of the fruit, creating a combination of traditional flavours found in Bilbao’s pinchos bars.
Resting on a dark slate board is a thick cube of pale Idiazábal cheese, topped with a glossy, reddish slice of quince jelly. When you pop this skewer into your mouth, you first taste the dense, sugary texture of the fruit, which slowly melts away, releasing sweet and slightly tart flavours. Immediately afterwards, the palate encounters the firm, buttery texture of the cheese. Its intense flavour, with a slight hint of heat and smoky notes, cuts through the initial sweetness and creates a lingering, creamy balance with every bite. This combination is a classic in the taverns of Bilbao and throughout the Basque Country, where Idiazábal – made exclusively from raw milk from native Latxa or Carranzana sheep – encapsulates the pastoral essence of the green valleys as it matures.
La Concha beach
Strolling along the Cantabrian coast and resting your hands on the wrought iron allows you to appreciate the contrast between the solidity of the metal and the gentle dampness of the breeze. A tactile experience set against the backdrop of the waves on La Concha beach in San Sebastián.
In the foreground, an ornate white wrought-iron railing features a succession of circles and carved leaves, standing out against the pale sand and the blue of the sea. You feel the cool touch of the paint on the metal beneath your palms, whilst your fingers trace the relief of the iron flowers. You can feel the dense, salty dampness on your skin, carried by the constant breeze from the Cantabrian Sea, and you notice a subtle vibration in the structure as the waves crash against the lower wall. This unmistakable design, installed in the early 20th century, requires constant maintenance to protect it from marine corrosion and remains the great tactile and visual symbol of San Sebastián’s Belle Époque.
Basilica of Santa María del Coro
To run your hands over the sculpture of San Sebastián is to interpret the stone through its forms and textures. Exploring every fold, wound and carved arrow allows one to grasp the tension of the martyrdom sculpted in the Basilica of Santa María del Coro in San Sebastián.
The ornate Baroque façade of ochre stone rises imposingly, housing in a central niche a sculpted figure of San Sebastián, his torso taut and pierced by arrows. As you explore the carving, you can feel the cool, porous texture of the sandstone beneath your fingertips. The hands trace the anatomical curves of the saint’s musculature and sense the contrast between the sharp edges of the arrows and the depth of the carved folds. You can see that the surface is slightly worn, with small indentations where the material has worn away over time. This structure at the Basilica of Santa María del Coro in San Sebastián was carved from stone quarried from the nearby Mount Igeldo, a sandy material that absorbs the salt spray from the Cantabrian Sea and transforms every crevice into a tactile record of the ocean winds.
Peine del Viento (Wind Comb)
Walking along the cobblestones and listening to the roar of the sea is just the beginning. If you listen carefully, you can hear the violent whoosh of air and pressurised water gushing from the ground beneath the sculptures of El Peine del Viento in San Sebastián.
A heavy, rusted iron sculpture, with thick, curved arms intertwined like claws, rises directly from the rugged rock face overlooking the churning Cantabrian Sea. You can feel the deep, steady roar of the waves crashing against the rock. Beneath your feet, you sense a muffled, rhythmic rumbling that precedes a violent snort. Water and air are forced through underground passages and escape to the surface with a high-pitched, prolonged whistle, like a giant’s exhalation. This geological symphony is the essence of Eduardo Chillida’s work in San Sebastián, designed not only to integrate steel into the coastline, but also to interact with the tides and transform the surroundings into a wind instrument on a monumental scale.
Plaza de los Fueros
As you walk down the stone steps, you can feel the noise of the city slowly fading away. As you reach the end, the traffic fades away, leaving only a clear echo with every step you take across the Plaza de los Fueros in Vitoria.
A flock of pigeons takes flight, circling above the concentric pattern of cobblestones that forms the base of a tiered granite amphitheatre. As you walk down these steps, you notice an almost immediate reduction in noise. The constant hum of traffic from the nearby avenues suddenly fades away. In its place, you hear a low, clean reverberation: the agile fluttering of birds and the crisp echo of your own footsteps bouncing off the hollowed-out stone, revealing the physics of this crater. This profound void was conceived in the 1980s by Eduardo Chillida, who designed the Plaza de los Fueros in Vitoria as a vast labyrinth carved out of the earth, a resounding temple of silence amidst the hustle and bustle of the city.