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Woods bending towards the sea, cliffs watching over thundering seas; from the shore's cliffs and beaches to the woodlands and rivers of the hinterlands, across marshes and valleys, Busturialdea-Urdaibai is an enchanted estuary where the rural and the sea worlds, the two defining aspects of the Basque country, become one.
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The coastal town of Mundaka, located in the province of Biscay, is world-wide known for boasting Europe’s best left wave, which every October attracts the top world class surfers; its population of under 2,000 inhabitants swells exponentially in October when surfers and the sport’s followers flock to the area in awe of the great event. Mundaka recently hosted the Billabong Pro, one of the few championships belonging to the Association of Surfing Professionals World Tour. However being a paradise for surfers is not Mundaka’s only merit. Far from it! Along with 18 other towns, it is part of the Urdaibai Biosphere Reserve, a paradise of a different and more relaxing kind yet equally popular.
Urdaibai was declared Biosphere Reserve by UNESCO in 1984. With 23,000 hectares of cliffs, beaches and inland woods and rivers, it boasts the most diverse scenery and environmentally valuable natural area in the Basque Country. Mundaka estuary and its wetland, host to many migratory bird species, is located in the heart of Urdaibai and the village of Mundaka itself is one of the main spots within the reserve. The place is really worth a visit; Mundaka is a traditional fishing town centered on its picturesque port. It is also an unavoidable stop on the Northern Way to Santiago – the local library was the former pilgrim’s hospital.
Right in in the vertex of the “v” shaped Biosphere reserve is Gernika-Lumo the most symbolic town in the Basque country not only for inspiring Picasso’s world-wide known masterpiece, but for housing the tree of Gernika. The significance of this old oak goes well back in history; the Counsel of the province of Biscay gathered under its shade from the 14th century and now a day it is here where Basque presidents are sworn in. The full-scale ceramic reproduction of Picasso’s famed painting, the Peace Museum and the Museum of the Basque Country are some of the main attractions of the region’s spiritual capital.
The west Gernika is the departure point for visiting both west and east Banks of the Mundaka estuary. To the west lie Mundaka and Bermeo, another very popular coastal town. On leaving Gernika we arrive in Forua, an ancient little town well-known as a Roman settlement and for its 17th century church of San Martin. We continue our journey onto Murueta, where the first views over the marsh of the Biosphere Reserve can be enjoyed. Basque farmhouses, rustic wooden piers and some old factories and buildings are found on the way up from Murueta to Busturia.
The area of San Cristobal, near Busturia, makes another privileged halt on the route with its bird watching observatory and a marshy beach. Busturia is also home to many shrines and examples of classic Basque architecture. In Sukarrieta, next stop on the westward journey, Txatxarramendi Island must be visited. This little islet is so close to the mainland that can be reached across a foot bridge and boasts its own botanical park. The journey leads to Mundaka with some of the best views over the estuary. Leaving Mundaka by the, winding, pretty, well kept coastal road, and before getting to Bermeo, take in the breathtaking vistas across Izaro Island.
The western journey comes to an end in Bermeo, recognised from ancient times as one of the most important estuary-fishing ports in the Cantabrian cornice. Here you should be tempted into visiting the Fisherman’s Museum at the entrance of the old port, housed in the Ercilla tower, a Basque-style 16th century building. However, picturesque Bermeo’s main highlight is not in the town centre, but just outside: San Juan de Gaztelugatxe, a rocky promontory out in the sea with a small chapel on its summit and some of the finest views of the entire Basque coastline; the 231 steps that lead to the top make an exhilarating climb.
The east Departing from Gernika, the first stop on the eastwards route is the Valley of Oma. Here, the visitor will first come across the district of Basondo, a refuge for many wild animals that are unfortunately threaten with extinction, such as the European bison, the Iberian wolf or the European lynx. A short distance away stands the cave of Santimamiñe, the region’s most important archaeological remains; recently designated a World Heritage site in its own right, the cave’s paintings date back over 13,000 years. The animated forest of Oma is another spot in the area that must not be missed, its trees carry markings painted by modern day Basque artist Agustín Ibarrola, who sought to merge the work of the ancestral artists of the Paleolithic with modern art.
Back on the main road and after passing through the towns of Kortezubi and Gautegiz-Arteaga, several historical buildings can be admired on the way. Pre-Romanesque and Romanesque chapels and Gothic and Renaissance churches are always at hand, however, among all stands out the impressive Castle of Gautegiz-Arteaga, a 13th century fortress rebuilt in the 19th which is nowadays a comfortable hotel . Then, after leaving the town of Ibarrangelu some of the most beautiful spots of Urdaibai await to be discovered: the stunning beaches of Laida and Laga and the Cape of Ogoño. Off the main track some impressive holm -oak woods can be found. The next stop, Elantxobe, is a very picturesque fishermen village. The spectacular vertical layout of the village centre renders Elantxobe one of the most distinct in the Basque coast. The town is also well-known for its narrow winding streets, neoclassical buildings and fishermen’s houses. Ea is the last town on the eastern section of Urdaibai. Here, the view from the chapel of the Concepción makes just the perfect ending to this trip.
Furthe information:
www.basquecountrytourism.net www.busturialdeaurdaibai.com
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